If your eyeshadow seems to vanish the moment you open your eyes, or your eyeliner looks heavy or at some points disjointed, chances are you’re working with hooded eyes.
The good news, however, is that with a few clever make-up tweaks, this eye shape can look lifted and bright.
According to New York-based make-up artist Laura Geller, “it’s all about adjusting your placement and technique to work with your eye shape, not against it.”
So, here’s how to master eye make-up for hooded eyes, according to an expert.
What are hooded eyes?
“Hooded eyes are when the eyelid has less visible space because the skin folds over the crease of the eyelid,” explains Geller.
It’s a completely natural eye shape, and one that can also become more pronounced with age as the skin on the eyelid begins to sag.
“It’s something some people are born with, but it’s also very common to develop more hooding as the skin naturally loses elasticity,” says Geller.
The main challenge, she says, is “it can make eyeshadow disappear and liner look heavier than intended.”
That’s why technique matters more than product.
Get the eyeshadow placement right
When it comes to hooded eyes, where you place your shadow is far more important than how much you use.
“With hooded eyes, placement is everything,” Geller explains.
“I always recommend applying a slightly deeper shadow just above your natural crease. This way, the colour stays visible when your eyes are open.”
Think of this as subtly creating a new crease – one that sits slightly higher than your natural fold.
She recommends keeping tones neutral and wearable. “Lean into earthy tones like taupes and browns to add depth without overwhelming the eye area,” she says.
Blending upwards – rather than outwards – is also key to creating lift.
Natasha Denona Mini Eye Sculpt Palette, £19.50 (was £26), Look Fantastic
Keep your eyeliner understated
Heavy liner can quickly overwhelm hooded eyes, so keeping it pared back is key.
“A tight line along the upper lash line following the natural shape of your eye is your best bet,” Geller says when it comes to incorporating liner.
“This will bring back definition without taking up too much lid space.”
Thick, graphic liners and shapes like the ‘feline flick’ can draw the eye down, making the area appear older, so Geller says to opt for a soft brown pencil instead.
“I like to keep liner soft and close to the lashes rather than thick or heavy, which can make the eyes look smaller.”
For an extra brightening trick, she suggests switching up what you apply on your waterline.
“Don’t underestimate the power of a beige liner on the lower waterline – this instantly brightens and makes the eyes look bigger and more refreshed.”
Charlotte Tilbury The Classic Eyeliner Pencil in Classic Brown, £24
Urban Decay 24/7 Eye Pencil in Beige Flag, £16.50 (was £22), Look Fantastic
Focus on lift, not drama
If your goal is bigger-looking eyes, piling on eyeshadow or liner is not the answer, and can often have the adverse effect.
Geller recommends focusing on what she calls the “3 Es”: eyeliner, eyelashes and eyebrows.
“Fill in your brows to frame the face, add a tight line of liner along the upper lashes for definition, and finish with mascara to open everything up,” she explains.
The overall effect should feel lifted, effortless and crucially minimal – rather than anything heavy or overly sculpted.
“Keep your shadow placement slightly above the crease and focus on upward blending,” she adds.
“A touch of brightness on the waterline or inner corner can make the entire eye area look more awake in seconds.”
Anastasia Beverly Hills Mini Modern Renaissance Eye Shadow Palette, £29, Sephora
Morphe M332 Medium Rounded Blender Eyeshadow Brush, £8.50 (was £10), Cult Beauty
Go for matte over shimmer
When it comes to formulas, there are no hard rules. “I like to use a mix,” says Geller. “Matte shades are great for creating shape and definition, especially just above the crease and right at the base of the eyelid.”
Shimmer isn’t off-limits, but it should be used carefully as it can often emphasise texture on eyelids, highlighting wrinkles and creases.
“[Shimmer eyeshadows] can be beautiful too, but I recommend keeping it lighter – maybe only on the inner corner to open the eye,” she explains.
